Exploring Tranquility: A Journey to Tirupathi Balaji

Smytta Yadav

Balaji's devotees span continents, with a significant presence from Hindus based in countries such as Malaysia, Singapore, Sri Lanka, the UK, and the USA. They come from diverse backgrounds, cultures, and religious affiliations, united by their unwavering devotion to Balaji, also referred to as Lord Venkateswara. The temple has become a major destination for visitors seeking a spiritual experience. Even if this makes it easier for believers to go on pilgrimages, it also raises worries about the commodification and commercial exploitation of spirituality.

Almost all the NRIs also refer to the experience of their visit as a darsana. In the realm of Indian religions, the term "darsana" has taken precedence over the conventional use of the word "temple." Derived from the Sanskrit root "darsana," meaning sight, darsana encapsulates the profound act of beholding the deity, typically situated in the inner sanctum or garbhagriha of a Hindu temple. Unlike the generic reference to a place of worship, darsana emphasizes the act of seeing and being seen by the deity during the temple visit.

This shift in terminology signifies a broader spiritual experience beyond the physical structure of a temple, emphasizing the intimate connection between devotees and the divine through visual communion.

As for the number of people served every day, the figures can vary widely based on special occasions, festivals, and regular days. On an average day, the Annaprasadam Complex at the Tirupathi Balaji temple serves tens of thousands of people. During major festivals and auspicious days, this number can surge significantly, reaching hundreds of thousands. The temple's communal dining hall is renowned for its capacity to provide nutritious and sanctified meals to the multitude of pilgrims who visit the temple daily.

But not everybody agreed with this assessment. Many complained about how the crowd management at the temple wasn't up to par. Due to the high number of worshippers and the ineffective measures attempted to regulate the crowds, there was pushing and shoving, general discomfort, and even some safety concerns for people accompanying children and senior citizens. In addition, the lack of ramps or other amenities designed to meet the needs of disabled and older visitors was a major shortcoming of the temple complex. Generally, Non-Resident Indians or NRIs – the common term for those of Indian heritage living abroad - felt that there was little order.

The fact that tourists who did not practise Hinduism were not given enough directions or explanations was also unsatisfactory. The online mechanism for scheduling darsana appointments to see the main deity has been criticised by several users. Even with reservations, the poor planning meant that people still had to wait for hours. Those who take the time to schedule their trips in advance should have a problem-free experience, thus streamlining the online booking process is a top priority.

One of the major criticisms that have been raised is regarding the commercialisation and excessive money-making activities surrounding the temple. The influx of pilgrims and tourists has led to the growth of a vast market around the temple premises, with vendors and businesses seeking to capitalise on the religious fervour. This commercialisation has at times overshadowed the spiritual sanctity of the place, leading to overcrowding and a focus on material gains rather than genuine devotion. Additionally, there have been concerns about the equitable distribution of the temple's wealth and resources. One British Indian couple said,

‘Tirupathi Balaji is my all time favorite. However, the trip I had recently was so disappointing. These people in orange sarees literally pull and push kids with both their hands (inside the main temple area just outside of the deity). My daughter was about to fall.
What if kids go lost in that crowd?
Is this the way to do sevas in temple?
The ladies in orange sarees must be trained properly. They must be kind and gentle towards kids’.

As one of the richest religious institutions in the world, there have been calls for greater transparency in the temple's financial management and accountability for the donations it receives from devotees. Ensuring that the temple's resources are used for the betterment of the local community and for charitable causes is an area that requires continued scrutiny.

Managed by the Tirumala Tirupathi Devasthanams (TTD), this temple, built in the 14th century, has become the epicenter of Hindu spirituality. Drawing an astounding 40,000–30,000 daily pilgrims, with peaks reaching 75,000, the temple faced challenges after the demonetization of higher denomination notes by the Indian government last year.

Addressing the surge, TTD has undertaken innovative measures to manage the massive influx. The temple's infrastructure, originally not designed for such scale, has undergone significant enhancements. The TTD's goals include maximizing daily pilgrim visits, ensuring fair waiting times, and prioritizing crowd safety.

One notable initiative is the construction of a high-quality road adorned with fluorescent barriers, regulating the journey from Tirumala to the temple. The imposition of minimum time limits for ascent and descent discourages speeding, enhancing safety.

To maintain equitable waiting times, TTD implemented separate queues for senior citizens, disabled individuals, and VIPs, streamlining the main queue's flow. The intricate organization involves subdividing the main queue for security checks and prashad distribution, ensuring efficiency. Despite these efforts, challenges persist, with reports of stampedes and dissatisfaction among devotees due to limited darsana time. Special queues with varying wait times and VIP recommendations contribute to the complexity.

Beyond the mechanics of crowd control, Tirupathi stands as a symbol of Hindu devotion. The pilgrimage, described in the Bhagavad Gita, reflects the path of devotion—a profound surrender to the Creator. Whether ascending the 3,500 stairs or lighting a diya (a small lamp) on each step, devotees express unwavering commitment.

The daily chariot procession with elephants on the main road, Mada Street, is commonly referred to as the Vahana Seva. During this procession, the deity is carried on a beautifully decorated chariot drawn by elephants along the main street. It is a visually captivating and spiritually significant event where devotees gather to witness the deity's presence and seek blessings. The Vahana Seva is an integral part of the temple's traditions and rituals, offering devotees a unique opportunity to connect with the divine in a festive and grand manner.

Despite the criticisms, the surreal experience of seeing the deity is still valued. The following are examples of pleasant experiences from a Malaysian Tamil family:

‘We had booked Rs 10000 VIP break darsana under srivani trust scheme. Three people visited. Our reporting time was 6.15 AM in the morning. We reached at 5.45 AM. As we had the VIP tickets, the police allowed our car near VQC 1 for drop off. There was a queue and about 100 people were there. Our tickets and ID were checked properly. After walking for 5 mins we were made to sit in a compartment. They served us Coffee and Milk. It was very good. AT about 7 AM pongal (lemon rice) was served which was tasty. At about 7.25 AM we were allowed for darsana and the line started. Our tickets were checked again. By 8.15 we were near the sanctum. We went inside and had a very close darsana of Lord Venkatesa. We had goose bumps and my mother was very happy and moved. we gradually entered the sanctum in line and we went very close to the god, just 3 feet away. We never had such a experience in life. We appreciate TTD for such an initiation’

In the second tale, I joined a British Hindu couple as they made their way to the Tirupathi Balaji Temple. They spoke highly of the tour company's personalised service, saying that it had increased their knowledge of the temple's rituals and significance. The tour guide had gone above and beyond for the couple, and they wanted to express their appreciation.

The juxtaposition of order within chaos, the influence of religion, and the entrepreneurial spirit of TTD portray the multifaceted essence of India. A visit to Tirupathi promises a unique and spiritually enriching experience.